SEKIGAHARA, Gifu -- "Surprisingly surreal," "a mysterious paradise," "an undeniably B-grade spot." These were some of the reviews for a theme park in this central Japan town reenacting the Battle of Sekigahara that took place in 1600. Another reviewer wrote, "You should definitely go." My mind was made up to do so.

After walking some distance from the nearest train station, I caught a view of the theme park, "Sekigahara Warland." Passing through a gate resembling a castle, a concrete statue of a mounted warrior, slightly larger than life-size, jumped into view. Beyond that, numerous military commanders, foot soldiers, gun squads and others were depicted in battle.

The park spans about 33,000 square meters. It features over 200 statues, including those depicting Tokugawa Ieyasu inspecting enemy heads for the Eastern Army, Ishida Mitsunari rallying the Western Army, and Fukushima Masanori charging into the battlefield on horseback.

The statues are brightly colored and their expressions are deep, with their slightly imperfect craftsmanship making visitors inadvertently smile. Perhaps it is this lack of perfection that attracts them.

The statues were crafted by the late Shoun Asano, known to the initiated as a concrete sculptor from Gifu Prefecture, and his uniquely styled statues have been erected throughout the prefecture, earning him the nickname "the father of quirky spots in the Tokai region," and his creations have many admirers. Over 60 years have passed since the park opened, and the statues have succumbed to deterioration with age, but they are apparently maintained by fans, who repaint them every one or two years.

But who built this park, and for what purpose? Daisen Taniguchi, 36, the sales manager of the Sekigahara Tourism Group that operates Warland, shared its origins.

It was Taniguchi's grandfather Gyokusen, the first director of the theme park, who laid it out, inspired by his father's will: "Thirty-six thousand people died here. I want you to leave something behind to convey the lessons."

Gyokusen was assigned to a kamikaze unit during the war, but survived without departing on a mission. Moved by his father's last words and his own experiences in the war, he established Houzoji temple to honor those who died in the battle, and constructed Sekigahara Warland right next to it, Taniguchi says.

After learning of Gyokusen's desire for an end to war with "no more Sekigaharas," I came to see the park in a slightly different light. Each statue seemed to appeal for a world without the disturbances of war.

There is one lone statue in the park that has nothing to do with the battle. It is described as "the ghost of Takeda Shingen," and a sign next to it reads, "No more fighting!" Shingen was a powerful feudal lord from Japan's Sengoku, or Warring States, period.

This was surely the cry of Gyokusen's heart, and I felt as if the call was being directed at the world today. Warland is actually a deeply profound theme park that conveys the foolishness of war with humor.

With this in mind, does the park mind being featured as an "amusing spot"?

"Regardless of the reason, we're grateful if people come and learn about the background," Taniguchi said with a smile -- a demonstration of the park's welcoming spirit.

(Japanese original by Yu Kajiwara, Nagoya News Department)

Sekigahara Warland

Address: 1701-6 Sekigahara, Sekigahara town, Gifu Prefecture (a 25-minute walk from JR Sekigahara Station). Parking is available.

Opening hours: 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. from April to November, and 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. from December to March (until 4 p.m. on weekends and holidays). Last entry is 30 minutes before closing.

Admission: 800 yen for adults, 500 yen for elementary school students, and 300 yen for preschoolers. Free for children under 3. No pets are allowed.

Contact (in Japanese): Phone Sekigahara Hana Ibuki at 0584-43-1177.