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Japanese whisky industry matures with int'l acclaim, 10 times more makers in a decade
MAINICHI   | 5 jam yang lalu
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Wakatsuru Shuzo Co. president and master blender Takahiro Inagaki is seen in a photo provided by his company, which has over a half-century of history as a whisky maker.
TOKYO -- Certain types of whisky are global favorites: Scotch from Scotland, Irish whisky from Ireland, American blends like bourbon, and Canadian whisky with its rich history. Recently, Japanese whisky is increasingly being recognized as one of the world's five major whisky styles, joining their ranks.
Leading Japan's whisky production are two major companies, Suntory Holdings Ltd. and Nikka Whisky Distilling Co. These firms have spent decades refining their flavors while engaging in a friendly rivalry. Since the early 2000s, their whiskies have consistently earned high praise at international competitions, solidifying Japanese whisky's global reputation.
Barrels of aged whisky are seen at the Suntory Yamazaki Distillery in Shimamoto, Osaka Prefecture, on Oct. 8, 2024. Suntory Holdings Ltd. has, along with competitor Nikka Whisky Distilling Co., led a boom in the popularity of Japanese whiskies. (Mainichi/Tsuyoshi Kosaka)
"Can whisky become a true Japanese industry? We're at a critical turning point," said Takahiro Inagaki, the 37-year-old president of Wakatsuru Shuzo Co. Founded in 1862, the sake brewery in Toyama Prefecture is best known for Wakatsuru, a premium sake. However, the company has also been producing whisky since 1952 at its Saburomaru Distillery.
Inagaki returned to the family business in his 20s after working for a foreign-affiliated company. While pondering ways to revitalize the firm, he discovered a whisky made by his great-grandfather, Kotaro, that had been aging for more than 60 years. Although the employees doubted it was drinkable, Inagaki sampled it and was amazed by its rich flavor.
Motivated by this discovery, he modernized the distillery's aging facilities and became the master blender, creating whiskies based on his own tastes. This transformation coincided with an unprecedented boom in Japanese whisky's popularity.
Distilling machinery "Zemon," developed concurrently with the renovation of Saburomaru Distillery, is installed at the facility in this photo provided by Wakatsuru Shuzo Co.
Wakatsuru Shuzo, once sake-focused, now generates about 80% of its revenue from whisky. The company has even begun exporting its products.
Across Japan, the whisky industry is thriving. Over the past decade, the number of distilleries has surged more than tenfold to approximately 100.
Still, whisky-making is a challenging industry due to the time and expertise required. As a result, much of the talent and resources remain concentrated among the largest companies. It is uncertain how many of the newer distilleries will endure.
Bottles of new whisky brand "Sab" from Wakatsuru Shuzo Co.'s Saburomaru Distillery, released internationally in December 2023, are seen in Tokyo on Dec. 6, 2024. (Mainichi/Kiyohiro Akama)
"To make Japan a world-class whisky producer, we need to expand the foundation of whisky production," said Inagaki. He has also supported emerging distilleries by restoring barrels, an essential component of whisky aging.
Once dominated by major corporations but now energized by new players, the Japanese whisky industry is reaching a stage of maturity.
(Japanese original by Kiyohiro Akama, Business News Department)
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