TOKYO -- An expert in Japan is advising consumers who get headaches from drinking red wine to avoid anything labeled "natural" or "organic" due to potentially high content of compounds called "biogenic amines."

Many people get a throbbing headache after drinking red wine. Why, even though white wine or other alcoholic beverages do not cause the same? The reason may be the biogenic amines that can be found in red wine. Some studies have shown that 7% to 8% of people in Japan are sickened by these substances.

Haruka Masuko, 43, a brewer at Cfa Backyard Winery in Ashikaga, Tochigi Prefecture, often tastes a variety of wines in the course of her work. However, when she drinks a certain type of red wine, she feels ill. "An hour later, symptoms such as a throbbing headache, nausea and a flushed face appear. Drinking lots of water improves the symptoms, but it takes about half a day for them to disappear," she said.

Biogenic amines are produced from amino acids. Wine contains four main types: tyramine, histamine, cadaverine and putrescine. Tyramine, in particular, stimulates the secretion of the neurotransmitter noradrenaline. This excites the sympathetic nervous system and causes many blood vessels to constrict. As a result, symptoms like headaches, increased blood pressure and nausea occur.

"Biogenic amine intolerance," a condition in which presence of the enzyme that breaks down biogenic amines is low and consuming the compounds causes physical problems, is estimated to be present in 7% to 8% of the population -- a larger ratio than the 1% to 2% prevalence of common food allergies in Japan.

According to Kenichi Shimizu, an oenologist and author of books about wine, biogenic amines are produced during the lactic acid fermentation process to mellow the acidity of red wine. At this time, adding a lactic acid bacteria called "Oenococcus" does not produce tyramine, but using a lactic acid bacteria called "Lactobacillus," which is naturally found in harvested grapes, produces a lot of it.

In countries such as France, Germany and Australia, upper limits have been set for the content of biogenic amines in wine. In Japan, however, there are no such standard, and wines with high levels of biogenic amines are sold side by side with those that do not.

So, how should people who suffer from headaches and other symptoms choose wines with low biogenic amine content?

Shimizu explained, "It's safe to avoid wines with labels that say 'natural' or 'organic.'" This is apparently because such wines often use Lactobacillus for lactic acid fermentation.

Shimizu added, "With the recent boom in 'natural' wines, a large number with high biogenic amine content are currently being distributed. However, there are also natural wines with low content. How about establishing voluntary standards in the industry, such as labeling the amount of biogenic amines contained?"

(Japanese original by Reiko Ide, Lifestyle, Science & Environment News Department)